Further hidden sidings progress

Last night I took apart the hidden sidings baseboards as the only way to access the struts was to take the whole structure apart.  It was also worth doing anyway as the screws holding the board square weren't really long enough so these were replaced too.  I now have the bases ready and will be adding new struts to take the runners soon.  The traversers will be permanently fixed in place.  A method for stopping the traverser moving when in transit will be devised too.

I also trimmed the rail on the ends of the traverser roads to ensure they are flush with the ends and in doing so noticed a few had come loose from the copper clad (probably due to the house move and storage in the garage over winter).  These are now back in my (finally) rearranged office for repair.  I will also use the traverser for a test of the CMX cleaner with the wonderful 'goo gone' stuff.

Good progress over a couple of hours.  It won't be long until the hidden sidings are ready to be erected next to their neighbour boards and the alignments sorted. As the layout is DCC there is no need to worry about wiring across the join between traverser and main line - it's all wired live all of the time.  Thus I will probably use strong magnets on steel flat pieces to align the track at the traverser edge.  This will allow for very fine adjustment, better than the fixed nature of say door bolts.

Will post some pictures to show you what I mean when the boards are finished.

Further ‘progress’

Work is continuing on 3 fronts:

- Planning the stock list for EXPONG to concentrate on getting that ready

- Fitting the traversers to the hidden sidings baseboards – I have worked out a way and begun disassembling the boards to incorporate the new design.

- Installing point motors and the lenz ls150 accessory decoder (which arrived this morning).

Traverser method change

I have never been happy with the slightly bizarre design I first decided upon for the traversers.  This worked using the shiny sides of hardboard and allowed them to move by facing the base of the board and the base of the traverser with the shiny sides.  The system worked, but the hardboard bowed far too easily.  Thus a trip down to the local homebase (for other things as it happens) occurred and I purchased two sets of ball bearing based runners.  These have been mounted to the struts underneath the traversers and although over long (not a problem as this can be hidden once the boards are installed), they will work far better. 

Now to redesign the hidden sidings boards around these!

First exhibition confirmed

I’m delighted to announce that Rhyd Ddu will be first shown at the Greenwich and District Railway Society’s EXPO Narrow Gauge event in the autumn.

This takes place on Saturday 30th October 2010, 10:30am to 5:30pm

At the White Oak Leisure Centre, Hilda May Avenue,Swanley, Kent, BR8 7BT

http://www.expong.org/

Hope to see you there!

sorry for the lack of updates

This has been because I have been finishing the Quarry Hunslet for the Stoneleigh 16mm show - http://16mm-ng.blogspot.com/2010/03/done.html and also as we are doing up the house (part DIY, part professionals).

I do hope to complete the trackwork on the yard board as soon as the new boiler is in and the radiator in my study replaced.  Until then the whole study is in a state of flux.

Hooray for streetview

http://tinyurl.com/yzaeqvf

Rhyd Ddu is on street view - very useful for checking details!

and in case you're wondering Merddin got caught at Porthmadog http://tinyurl.com/yhl7w9s and 87 near Snowdon Ranger http://tinyurl.com/yzaeqvf.

cool!

Colin

airbrush fun!

Hey airbrushing is well good fun!

Above are my first efforts – the left hand one painted with the airbrush the right hand one ‘weathered’.  Not perfect yet as practice will improve it but wow what a brilliant finish when compared to brushing. 

The paint I used required more thinning that the book suggested 7:3 ratio as it was clogging a little (twisting the spray adjuster generally unblocked it).  However a little paint really does go a long way!

Airbrush setup

 

Here we are all setup and ready for testing.  Will be trying acrylics first onto some card and then some simple weathering.  Really looking forward to it.

Further progress on trackwork

I now have three points in and the new main line section cut ready.  However I have run out of insulated joiners so there will be a gap (no pun intended) until I can get my hands on more.

No worry though because my spray booth arrived yesterday, so airbrush experimentation can commence.

I also some heavy duty side cutters (for £3) yesterday.  These are immense and make light work of piano wire!  Thanks to David Waller for the info.  Thanks too go to various other people who came up with other methods for cutting.  However nothing compares to these beastly cutters – simple and quick.

Relaying

Relaying the yard with DCC friendly points has commenced.  In order to get good gaps I have decided to also relay the main line between yard and loop points too. So far 2 points are in, with two more and the relaid main line to come.

Tamper shed

The replacement container for the layout (the previous one was smaller and had less detail) will soon be installed.  So tonight I investigated whether it is worth running track into it, and as you can see Dolgarrog does fit in.  Therefore I shall be running electrified track into their –however the CMX track cleaner won’t quite fit in the KMX tamper shed due to the height of the control on top. 

Bench drill setup (on the cheap)

Here is my cheap bench drill setup complete:

- Minicraft drill stand from the 009 society stand at Shepton for £10.50

- Piranha 0 - 76MM quick release vice off of ebay for £8 + P+P

- B&Q value drill which fits the stand perfectly and has a latch (no speed control though) for £10

altogether about £30.

Hoff update

Massive thanks to David Waller (of Dduallt/Bron Hebog) for posting me three different diameters of piano wire.  It’s perfect for what I need but very difficult to cut indeed.  Thus, after further advice, I have purchased some heavy duty side cutters.  Hopefully these bad boys will make short work of cutting the wire.  So far the wire has made short work of the cutters!
In other news, I have saved up enough pennies to purchase the expo paint extractor unit…hopefully this will arrive next week and I can start practising with the new airbrushes… so much to do, so little time.

Hand built versus peco points

Here is a comparison between the modified (DCC friendly) peco point and the hand-built point I bought at Shepton.  The difference is phenomenal and these just must mean better running - I really fancy getting two more (both left hand) for the other main loop point and the yard point.  This would mean that all three points on the main drag would be of this hand built type.  But where would one get more of these/the parts to make these????  any ideas??? anyone????

Shepton Mallet review

Firstly a suite of photos can be found here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/colin.lea/SheptonMallet#
Good exhibition once again.
Highlights for me were Pempoul, Talyllyn, Garreg Wen and Beddgelert 1910.
The arrival of a 009 society 10% discount card just befrore the show was a nice surprise!
I bought a backwoods double fairlie (for £72!), two TR coaches (don’t ask why! I just liked them), a lovely handbuilt point (which will likely adorn one of the loop points on Rhyd Ddu), a Mercian FR horse dandy wagon (which I shall build to conceal a motor and run as a gravity slate), some FR transfers, a drill stand (£10.80!), 4 books (Ian Rathbone’s newish book on painting and lining, the new Middleton Corris/Vale of Rheidol book, the Oakwood Welshpool tome and a Lynton and Barnstaple album).  I also got some more of those great 009 society stock boxes.  Oh and some 16mm details and a skip wagon. phew!  and that’s not mentioning the cheese an cider from Thatchers near Cheddar!
Dad invested in some more Kevin Trim 7mm kits which I have to say look superb – the Welshpool Earl is all nickel silver and even comes with real coal in the kit!  His plan for a diorama of British narrow gauge trains is coming together now – two Talyllyn trains, a Leek and Manifold train, an Ashover one and most of a Welshpool and Llanfair train now too.  cool.

The line-up

For the first time I was able this weekend to line up all my WHR Garratts.  In various stages of build here we see (from top) K1, 109, 143, 138, 87.
I have brought K1 back as Dad has not had time to work on the valve gear, so I’m going to have a go.  I built the body.
143 is materially complete, just needing varnish, a decoder, a driver etc
109 will wait for the launch of 109 next year.  The body was bought off ebay in this condition.  This has the chassis units I started off (wheels in etc) when they were to be used for 87.
87’s body is nearly there and I’ve left the two chassis with Dad to try and get them working – these were bought recently off ebay along with the body that will be 109.
138 is pretty much there and just awaits details on pipe runs etc once she is outshopped in red later this year.

A matter of the utmost gravity

I have been rereading an article by Martin Collins about 009 slate waggons.  Martin was not happy with the running of the axles in the plastic axleboxes and so got worsley works to etch up some new chassis for the waggons. These utilise an etched chassis with holes for brass bearings. There are three types – 16mm for FR 3 ton, 11mm for FR 2 ton and 10.5mm for TR 3 bar slates that can be converted to looks like FR 2 ton wooden slate waggons. 
So I decided to get out my slate waggon collection and see how many waggons could benefit from these new chassis, with one eye on Shepton Mallet coming up…
The test I developed was that a waggon would be deemed to have passed if both wheels would freely rotate when it was pushed gently along track with a finger from the end with no extra weight applied to the top. i.e. if the track were inclined enough I would expect the waggon to roll along nicely.
The inital pass had mixed results, some were excellent, some had just the one wheel acceptable and some were sliding along the track not rolling.  However I soon came along a fix, that of filing off the pointed end of the axle a little to give it more of a blunt end.  This improved a number of waggons and with brake gear snagging on some wheels too being sorted  was getting somewhere.
In the end the waggons pictured above on my bookcase have all passed the test – some 32.  There were just 3 waggons in the end that I couldn’t fix easily and so these will be sold.
I therefore see no reason to invest in the new chassis.

Wired up and ready to go

The 5 new points have had wires attached to the undersides of the rails and are ready to be reassembled onto the layout.  I ran out of blue wire towards the end!  I decided on wire that will be linked under the boards as any other method (like bridging the gap with strip) makes it harder for the blades to bend properly and may result in gauging problems. 
So now it’s time to get the yard board out again and rewire this section.  Then I’ll be installing the hoffs, which still need piano wire but I am hoping to get some advice on the correct size to go for before I order the wire up.  It looks like a max size of about 0.8mm would work as although the 1mm is wide enough to fit the slot, it protrudes too much and the red plastic piece struggles to retain the wire.  0.6mm fits nicely but is a bit springy.

Airbushing

There can be little doubt that the best paint finishes come from airbrushing.  Thus I have invested in some kit.  Off of ebay I got this little lot for £100 (inc P+P).
Two double-action airbrushes.  Yes I know they are ‘cheap’ Chinese copies, but the reviews I have read say that they perform really well, so I’ll start with these and see how I get on.

A compressor, with tank and in line moisture trap.  The tank means that the compressor is used less (less wear on the piston, another moisture trap and less noise!).  Also using air from the tank avoids pulsing of the air (the action of the piston). To be honest this is worth £100 on its own!

and some nice extras – a T connector to split the airflow, allowing 2 airbrushes to be in action at once.  Also included is a double stand and a couple of extra pots and a fine mini filter to attach to the airbrush to catch any last bits of moisture in the air.  Plus two braided air hoses too.  Everything I need.  I have also invested in a book on airbrushing.
 
Next purchase will be one of these… the expo tools extractor, Dad has the more expensive (but less portable) graphicair.  This should be fine for my requirements as is about £70.  The video shows how compact and effective it is.

Testing of the kit will have to wait until the weekend…
Oh and I’ll be on the look out again for an ultrasonic cleaner (really good for cleaning airbrushes).
Colin

Dcc friendly points

Thanks to Nile from rmweb for the idea.  The conducting joiner was replaced with a cut down insulated one and glued below just in case.  The springs have also been removed.