Riveting

Have spent quite a while studying the backwoods B class instructions. A few observations:
- the method of attaching cranks to the axles is far superior - the plastic friction fit pieces will avoid the wheel centre melting problem!
- in fact the wheels come (along with a gear wheel) installed on their axles
- the kit uses a live body arrangement with insulated wheels one side. This will require some careful work to isolate the motor from the body for DCC.
- the method for clamping the cranks prior to lamination usong 12BA bolts on the frets is very clever
- the kit looks like a perfect one for the novice

I've also been studying the differences between the kit and the B class being modelled - no. 19. These are:

- tender!
- no lamp on roof and whistle very different, not on roof but with hole in roof for steam to escape
- a different front lamp
- a taller less wide toolbox
- no coal rails
- extra feed to bottom of dome
- extra pipes on smokebox
- different patterns of rivets on body side (but I can't be bothered to alter these)
- specific numberplates etc (being etched for me by narrow planet)

Have started by doing all the riveting (using Dad's special nails plus hammer method) and cutting out the frames.